Things to do in Napier (New Zealand’s Insanely Creative City)

Picture it, the 3rd Feb 1931. At 10:47am, a young girl sits in a Napier dentist office on her first day back at school. Dressed in her uniform, brand new boater hat on the chair next to her. It was just a regular day. 

Until seconds later a magnitude 7.8 earthquake hit. 

Though it would signal the destruction of the city, and kill nearly 300 people across Napier and Hastings, the girl escaped with her life.

And the first words out of her mouth? 

“I have to find my hat! Mother will kill me!”

Honestly…I reckon we can all relate to the girl from Napier.

The 1931 earthquake caused devastating damage and loss of life. But there’s no doubt, it also made Napier what it is today; the Art Deco Capital of the World (self-named and completely accurate). This was one of my favourite places I visited in New Zealand, on a trip filled with amazing surreal experiences.

What is Art Deco?

ART DECO
(noun)
The main BALLER AFdecorative art and architecture style of the 1920’s and 30’s.

• Brought About by: A shift in modernity. 
• Characterised by: Hercule Poirot, probably geometric and streamlined shapes, as well as the use of man-made materials such as Bakelite plastic and concrete.

Hercule Poirot, in his Art Deco office, being all satorial and sh!t

• Common Design Elements: Stylised sunrays, animals and florals. Egyptian influences.
• Famous Examples: Chrysler Building. Rockefeller Centre. Empire State Building (New York City)

Why Napier, New Zealand

The coastal town of Napier is one of the most unique cities in New Zealand. While most old architecture in the country is traditional (early to pre-1900’s), Napier was ambitiously rebuilt at the apex of the Art Deco style. When the 1931 earthquake and subsequent fires flattened the city.

But while Napier is a love letter to the era, it’s also a fluke. This ‘modern’ architecture style – the term ’Art Deco’ would not be coined until the 60’s – was cheaper and more quake-resistant than previous wooden buildings. And the town was rebuilt in only two years meanwhile, it takes Perth that long just to extend a road.

Fabulous architecture aside, the city has an insanely creative vibe. Reminiscent of other port towns like Fremantle in Western Australia, or Brighton in England. Amazing coffee, a great food scene, and excellent wine nicely compliment the city’s interior design and homewares stores, creative collectives, and galleries.

Accommodation in Napier:

For Design Lovers: Art Deco Masonic Hotel

There’s no hotel of the era more fabulous than the Art Deco Masonic. Even if you stay only one night like myself, you’ll be completely enamoured with the place – they practically had to kick me out. Located right on Marine Parade and walking distance to everything, this hotel is in THE perfect location for accommodation in Napier. The rooms are started from the bottom now we’ here gorgeous! What’s good enough for HRH Queen Elizabeth II and hubby is good enough me.

The detail in the rooms, lobby, and halls are incredible; opposite my room a vintage Chandler lamp sat atop an equally old sideboard. And the room was beautiful, with a distinct creative flair and none of the usual bland uniformity of other hotels. Photos of other rooms show they’re not all the same, which I love. Touches such as PROPER teacups and saucers, plus access to the stunning roof terrace overlooking marine parade and the Napier Arch made the experience extra memorable. They’ve mixed Art Deco with contemporary in a clever way. So when design lovers or architect fanatics ask where to stay in Napier, I’ve gotta say the Art Deco Masonic.

Price: Depends on season but avg. $145-200 NZD per night

On the Cheap: AirBNB or Holiday Rental

While I’d usually suggest a hostel for solo travellers, because I always stay in them myself, the options available for cheap accommodation in Napier had less than stellar reviews across most booking sites on cleanliness. This is my main requirement with any hostel (I’ve experienced bed bugs once in my hostel-staying life…that was once too many).

Hotels in the city centre are all around the same price, and shared between two or more people can be reasonable. But to get true bang-for-your-buck and a good location, holiday rentals are your best-value option. AirBNB availability changes according to dates, but on average I found you can get private accommodation in Napier close to or in the centre of town for around $80-95 NZD per night – for an ‘entire place’. There are cottages, tiny homes, apartments, even a tree house! Use the Art Deco Trust building or anywhere along Tennyson St as a focal point, they’re right in the thick of everything.

Price: Depends on season but avg. $80-95 NZD per night

Things to do in Napier – The Creative Scene:

Blackbird Goods:

This homewares & lifestyle goods shop by interior stylist and blogger, Jemma Adams, is everything. A stunning light and airy space filled with beautiful items displayed on open shelves and hooks. Warm and welcoming, with a strong focus on natural materials and gorgeous muted tones that would compliment almost any interior. Picture ethically sourced treasures from New Zealand and abroad, pieces by skilled craftspeople, even a few vintage finds. These aren’t your run of the mill homewares either. Everything from garden tools to kid’s toys are on offer. The linen kimonos are luxe, designed by Adams and made by a talented duo in Bali. Visiting Blackbird goods is an essential thing to do in Napier for interior design-lovers. DO NOT MISS IT!

Must have: A ceramic piece by local Hawkes Bay artist Louis Kittleson (Tokatea Clayworks) would make a stunning addition to your home and meaningful souvenir of your Napier trip.
Prices start at $28 NZD for a tumbler
Blackbird Goods Website

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Homebase Collections:

The love project of Leanne Culy, this studio showcases her own creative works as well as thoughtfully curated pieces by other makers. Even before entering, the Ringland’s building (built in 1932) is stunning. With its set back storefront – a typical characteristic of Art Deco shops – and terrazzo flooring as well as geometric stained glass above the windows. Walking inside Homebase, you’re greeted by large art pieces and photographs on the walls of the long, high ceilinged space. Leanne Culy’s signature painted oars are hero pieces, each one with their own distinct personality. Hand-printed textiles in the form of cushions & lampshades sit alongside workshop-inspired furniture like ‘the work bench’. There are also pegboard-clad pieces such as a sideboard or bedside table. And, well, it’s just a lovely space to be in.

Must Have: Pick up a hand-dyed linen tea towel for a light, packable and functional souvenir for the kitchen.
Price $20 NZD.
Homebase Collections Website

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The Department of Curiosities and Fine Things:

A creative collective of sorts, ‘The Department’ houses curated works from an eclectic range of New Zealand makers. Everything from art, clothing, leather goods, pottery, and so much more. You want a cheese board or clock made from a wine barrel? They got it! What’s really amazing about this one-of-a-kind retail store is that 100% commissions are paid to the makers. Each one simply pays a monthly rent based on the size of the space they need, and everything else – sales, social media promotion, etc – is taken care of. Run by three Napier creatives, what started as a popup shop is now a permanent place to sell their own wares, and shine a light on other home-grown New Zealand products. An awesome concept.

Must Have: Traveling tea lovers and design fans will get a kick out of Pirate Tea by Fat Spatula. Gunpowder green tea and seaweed that looks like musket balls, and one serve can be brewed 3 or 4 times. Comes in a handy travel tin with an infuser, and even includes a treasure map.
Price $22 NZD
The Department Website

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Wardini Books:

A visit to this incredible bookshop is one of the best things to do in Napier for bibliophiles and writers alike. Think back to the bookshops of your youth for a moment, your favourite. For me, it was a cozy second-hand bookstore that I spent hours in finding hidden gems. And our local independent, from who my Mum ordered the upcoming Harry Potter book, only for me to devour the book in question on release day. These stores were secondary only to the library for their warm – almost magical – atmosphere. They had whimsical displays, and staff who could make suggestions for any age or genre.

Well, walking into Wardini books is a little like going back in time to these places. Of course it helps that one of the owners, Gareth Ward – the Great Wardini himself – is an author (and magician). And that one of the staff – Adele Broadbent – is also an author. Authoring aside though, Wardini Books is the kind of bookstore where they can help you find ‘that book, you know the one with the green cover? Could’ve been blue?’. They have an awesome selection and are happy just to have a chat about books.

Must Have: The Traitor & The Thief a steampunk adventure by owner Gareth Ward – $20 NZD.
Or for a pocketable souvenir, the hilarious Instant Kiwi (mini edition) by Rosemary Hepozden – $10 NZD.
Wardini Books Website

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MTG Hawkes Bay

An incredible museum / theatre / gallery on Marine Parade, in the heart of the city on Marine Parade. MTG Hawkes Bay is one of the best free things to do in Napier, showcasing local, national and international exhibits. Permanent features include the Taonga Maori exhibition, and the 1931 Earthquake. There’s many hidden gems to be found, and a wondrous array of changing exhibits. My favourite during my visit was Bottled Ocean by George Nuku, an internationally celebrated contemporary Maori artist. Nuku’s view on the juncture of plastic and our oceans is an amazing – and controversial – one. Plastic pollution is due to humans’ failure to appreciate it, as opposed to plastic being inherently ‘bad’.

He sees the material as little different to precious greenstone jade (pounamu). Mother earth creates the natural materials that are formed into plastic by chemical processes. It’s when we view plastic as worthless or disposable that causes the problems. Nuku has crafted STUNNING sculptures from recycled plastic; from an immense double-hulled waka (canoe) to toothy sharks and other marine life. These pieces showcase plastic as a truly beautiful material and the exhibition gave MTG Hawkes Bay a place in my museum-loving heart for life.
Cost: Free (excluding particular exhibits)
MTG Hawkes Bay Website

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Fun things to do in Napier:

Hawkes Bay Wine Tour with Frankly Tours:

The Hawkes Bay region is the oldest and second largest wine region in New Zealand. Home to the famous ‘Gimblett Gravels’district and just really freaking great wine. So a wine tour is one of the best things to do in Napier. I’ve done a decent amount of drinking wine tasting tours in my time, and while there’s loads of options in the area, Frankly Tours stands out. With a distinctly ‘small group’ feel and Frank’s easy-going personality, it’s wine tasting without the snobbery. Frank used to work at one of the wineries on the tour, Mission Estate, and there’s NO better person to have gone into this business. His knowledge of the various wineries, history of the area, and his passion as a wine lover is apparent as soon as you board the luxury air-conditioned van.

On a half-day tour, we went to four wineries, each with 6 or 7 tastings over a broad range of whites, rosés, reds, and dessert wines. Each winery is quite different – from established historic estates to boutique off-the-beaten-path wineries – a very eclectic mix, unlike other tours. Halfway through, as if reading our minds, a gourmet share platter apparated in front of the group, with mediterranean flavours that paired perfectly with the wine. Frank finishes off the day with ‘coach karaoke’ which I slayed at and a stop at rustic little brewery for a beer tasting flight. After being dropped back into town, and gifted a beautiful wine glass, I couldn’t have been happier to recommend it as one of the most fun things to do in Napier and that’s not just the wine talking.

Where to book: Online, through your accommodation, or at the trusty i-Site in Napier.
Half Day Tour: $120 NZD
Frankly Tours Website

See the Gannet Colony at Cape Kidnappers:

Cape Kidnappers in Hawkes Bay is the largest and most accessible mainland gannet nesting colony in the world. The perfect place to channel your inner David Attenborough whilst narrating a wildlife doco in your head, obvs. The gannets can be seen from September to early April, with their beautiful gold caps and better eye makeup than a beauty blogger on youtube. Watch them swooping and diving to catch fish on a majestic 2-metre wing span, and hitting the water at speeds of up to 100km/hr. There’s a few tours to choose from, the top operators being Gannet Safaris – who use air conditioned 4x4s – and Gannet Beach Adventures – whose ‘eco experience’ uses vintage tractors and trailers.

Where to book: Online, through your accomodation, or at the Napier i-Site. Gannet Safaris: With pickup from Napier i-Site – $124 NZD. Or from office in Te Awanga – $88 NZD.
Gannet Beach Adventures: Pickup from office in Te Awanga only – $48 NZD.

Take an Art Deco Walking Tour Napier:

I won’t lie, my New Zealand itinerary was formed almost solely around visiting Napier weird flex but ok. Art Deco architecture is the city’s biggest tourist drawcard. But it wasn’t always. As recently as the early 1980’s – that most bleak of architectural times – the art deco buildings had become shabby and unloved; painted in unsympathetic colours. At that time, the city considered its historic identity lost in the earthquake.

When a group of architects & planners came through and were shown the few surviving pre-quake buildings. They said “hey, heaps of places have those, but no other city has this many Art Deco beauties. That’s what makes Napier special”. And so the Art Deco Trust was born.

The trust is responsible today for preserving and promoting Napier’s art deco heritage. Helping a tiny team of full time staff are over 120 volunteers, who run guided walks around the city’s art deco quarter. The walking tour is one of the top things to do in Napier. It starts at the Art Deco Centre with a film about the earthquake, then you’re off. A witty, knowledgeable guide will entertain and shock you with anecdotes from the quake and how Hawkes Bay changed in its wake.

The best part of an art deco walking tour though is that – on weekdays – you get to go inside a few of the buildings. Including the jaw-dropping Municipal Theatre with its neon light fittings, replica cubist carpet, and breathtaking auditorium. Seeing the theatre lit up was a really ‘wow’ experience for me, up there with stragazing in Tekapo. Over the course of a 2-hour tour, you’ll take in the clay-tiled parapets of Spanish mission style buildings, subtle Maori twists on Art Deco motifs, and streamlining galore. The guides point out these gorgeous details you might otherwise miss. After the tour, grab a cuppa whilst watching a short film on the art deco festival.

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Where to book: Online or at the Art Deco Centre.
Guided Afternoon Walk: $26 NZD
Duration: 2 Hours + Optional 20min Short Film
Art Deco Trust Website

Napier Art Deco Festival:

The festival is the crème de la crème of things to do in Napier.

Crème de la Crème de la Edgar (Aristocats)

It’s fitting that in the same way Art Deco regenerated Napier in the 30’s, then gave it back it’s identity in the 80’s, it now brings tens of thousands of visitors from all over the world. The annual Napier Art Deco Festival is held in February, with over 200 events including vintage car parades, Gatsby themed picnics, even outdoor concerts held on Napier’s sound shell stage, and so much more! It’s a feast for the eyes, with punters dressing the part and donning their best era-inspired threads, while indulging in Napier’s gastronomical and liquid delights. The program each year is packed and the atmosphere is rumoured to be fever-pitch, with the Charleston in the streets and vintage tiger moth planes in the skies. If you’ve ever wanted to time travel, to fall into the world of The Great Gatsby or Singin’ In The Rain, then the Art Deco Festival is the best thing to do in Napier for you.
Get more info and dates here: Art Deco Festival Napier

Walk Along Marine Parade:

This is one thing to do in Napier that’s – in the absolute best way – almost impossible to avoid. Marine Parade is the main drag (that’s ‘main road’ for the non-Aussies out there) in Napier, with the ocean on one side, and art deco eye candy on the other. Literally eye candy,  the Sound Shell looks like old fashioned striped lollies. Napier citizens paid for the paved dancing area in front of this outdoor stage by ‘buying’ individual pavement slabs, in the post-quake rebuild.

On one side of the Sound Shell – facing the ocean – is the Veronica Sunbay colonnade, and on the other, is the Napier Arch. Opposite the Napier Arch is the Art Deco Masonic Hotel, and the domed T&G Building with its whimsical clocktower. Along Marine Parade you’ll also find the Napier i-Site, where you can book activities and get info on the city. You can’t miss walking out on the Marine Parade viewing platform for great views over the water, and back at the city. After that you could stop in at MTG Hawkes Bay. In the evening, check out the Tom Parker fountain. It’s a normal fountain during the day, but at night it lights up different colours, casting a magical glow over the garden.

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Best Coffee in Napier – a.k.a where to use wifi and get work done

Ujazi:

This quirky and colourful bohemian coffee house is the perfect place for brunch or brekky. There’s free wifi, so you can get some work done at a table outside in the sunshine or inside surrounded by funky painted walls, gorgeous artwork, and Warhol-style prints of famous artists and musicians. It’s common to see people lunching on Ujazi’s sidewalk alfresco area across from the MGT, just watching the world go by. Ujazi is one of the best cafes in Napier and makes a great stop after a stroll on Marine Parade.

Georgia on Tennyson:

Located around the corner from Blackbird Goods this stylish specialty coffee shop is the place to go for friendly service and warm conversation. Georgia is one of the best cafes in Napier. The baristas are dedicated to making a great brew, and being a speciality coffee shop, they’ve got all manner of weird and wonderful alternative brewing methods on offer. Whether cold drip or cappuccino, you can get that quality Himalayan-alpaca-certified-organic-and-grown-at-an-altitude-of-2000m-coffee-bean in your everyday cup. Drink from your Tiffany blue cup inside at a comfy booth seat by one of the enormous windows, or bathe in the sun at an old school desk on the sidewalk. It’s the best coffee in Napier according to the locals (Nathan from Blackbird Goods gave me the 411 on this place) and I have to agree.

Art Deco Masonic Hotel:

The Masonic has two restaurants attached to it. The Rose Irish Pub, and Emporium Eatery & Bar (see below for more on that). Both of these have great quality free wifi! So they make awesome places to work over coffee, tea, breakfast, or a long lunch. I can’t vouch for if this is the best coffee in Napier – having not tried a cup’o joe at either – but it might be the best free wifi in Napier…and for that, it gets a place on this list.

Where to Eat in Napier (Including the BEST Fish n Chips in New Zealand!)

Albion Canteen:

Coffee, juice, fresh salads and delicious sandwiches in a bright open interior. This is where to eat in Napier if you’re after a solid cafe that could be in any CBD in New Zealand. The eggs Benedict looked great, though I didn’t try them myself. I only popped in quickly for a sandwich, and reckon Albion Canteen makes a good pitstop for this type of grab-and-go while you’re exploring the city.

Kilim Turkish Cafe:

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This gorgeous Turkish restaurant was one of my two favourite places to eat in Napier! I opted for a table by the large open window, at the end of a beautiful sunny day. The interior of Kilim is lovingly decorated with Turkish art, ornaments, and Moroccan coffee pots, accented with bold cerulean and deep-rust walls. The booths are scattered with beautiful throw cushions, and their backs draped with a mix of wonderful Turkish fabrics. The decor provides as warm an atmosphere as the friendly service does.

There’s plenty on the menu for vegetarians here, and it’s some of the best value food in Napier. AND it’s in a Spanish Mission style building. You can even BYO alcohol (with no corkage!). Kilim’s kebabs are popular for lunch. But I suggest you run-don’t-walk for their delectable mezze platter. It comes with meat (I had lamb) mixed dips, dolma, falafels, spanakopita, olives, tabouleh, grilled haloumi, mixed salad, Turkish bread, and rice. Put Kilim Turkish Cafe on your list of places to eat in Napier ASAP.
Kebabs: From $10 NZD
Meze Platter: From $17-20 NZD.

Emporium Eatery and Bar (a.k.a the best Fish n Chips I’ve ever had):

Located on the ground floor of the Art Deco Masonic Hotel is Emporium. Ask to be seated in the lounge/dining room – not the bar area – and you’ll be greeted by a gorgeous cozy space decked out with large, comfortable dining chairs in shades of turquoise and lime green velvet. A chandelier and flocked wallpaper with gold mirror are accented by moody lighting, and if you cast your eyes upwards you’ll see vintage books, suitcases and other treasures. It’s art deco done modern. But Emporium isn’t just easy on the eye, it’s also the kinda eatery you can take home to Mumma home to the BEST fish n chips I had in New Zealand. In fact, it was the best fish n chips I’ve ever had. AND I DON’T EAT FISH!

The cod-like local fish (I can’t remember the name) is caught fresh every morning, and is battered to order. The batter was light and crispy with none of the heavy greasy-ness, seasoned perfectly and served with delicious chips and a tartar sauce. I topped it off with a mai-tai, coz reasons. This dish alone cemented Emporium’s name high into my list of places to eat in Napier, but I also went back another night for pizza.
Fish N Chips: $29 NZD

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TBOA Recommends To:

Architecture Nerds / Interior Design Lovers

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Napier Creative City Score

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Summary

Well, if you’ve stayed with me this long, then I’m a phenomenal writer and blogger extraordinaire Napier really is one of the most interesting places to visit in New Zealand. Everyone should put this gem of a city on their travel list. I hope you found this Napier guide useful. Pin it to your New Zealand board on Pinterest – or bookmark it – to save for later. And visit the posts below for more New Zealand awesome-ness!